It says it includes "Open Material Mode" which let's you "...print with any 405 nm photopolymer resin or 1064 nm powder on Formlabs 3D printers..."

This printer at least comes with the "Open Material Mode (included)" that lets you print with 3rd party resins. I'm sure the workflow won't be quite as nice as with the Formlabs native resin. That is unless you can somehow refill the old jugs or buy empty ones. Before long I imagine 3rd party compatible containers will show up.

> Formlabs will happily upsell the "Form Wash" for this for another 699

(A separate aside, since the main ones were addressed: Formlabs also launched a new "Wash+Cure" station that does wash and cure for $199, instead of their standalone (but better, of course) units that cost something like $1000 together.)

@pen2l what are you even talking about…?

1) form studio can use any material out of the box you just have to design your own print settings for it

2) form studio wash + cure is $200, not $699

3) the new resins are UL certified for low voc/indoor use, as well as score as non-skin irritants (OECD 439), and post-processed parts comply with ISO 10993 for long term skin contact

4) the new resins cost $30-$50ish per L, as opposed to fdm ~$25ish per kg. you also have to buy a tank that eventually wears out but imo when i’m printing a lot with the same material the tank cost doesn’t add much to the overall

5) fdm is great too, i have both in my shop. you should always use the right process and material for the job. if you need higher detail than what fdm can provide, more sophisticated materials, and an order of magnitude higher volumetric print speed, the form studio is a great option.

source: i don’t work at formlabs, but i used to

What are the open-platform alternatives? I was under the impression that the majority of printers used the CHITUBOX hardware platform internally, which was now locked to the CHITUBOX slicer. Has this changed? That would be wonderful news.

I don't think that Formlabs locks you into their wash and cure stations. Some of their printers lock you into their resin, but it looks like the Form Studio 1 discussed above and the Form 3, 3L, 4, and 4L let you use resin of your choice, although the Studio 1 does require you to buy a special $80 tray.

One of the main reasons to get the studio one is the UL GREENGUARD Gold Certification right? Their resins are much safer.

I love resin printer, but boys the amount of post-processing is really off-putting.

I cannot emphasize enough how much I hate these Formlabs printers. I am dealing with them at work and wish to be working on anything else.

Do you have any specific recomendations?

If you’ve ever used resin printers, you know the cartridges are a good thing because the liquid inside is basically carcinogenic if it comes in contact with your skin, so a lot of people just don’t do resin printing for exactly that reason and this gets around that.

> And also, be aware that these printers require some serious development work (you need solvent to wash away uncured resin (if you ask me, this basically necessitates a chemical hood...

As a 3D printer enthusiast (I model stuff in OpenSCAD and print to fix / DIY stuff around the house/car etc.) and seen how easy 3D printing using filament as become, resin 3D printers just seem... Extremely messy to me.

I understand that for people doing stuff like miniatures resin might be more precise (but filament printers with tiny nozzles became extremely precise too) but it just feels like a lot of work compared to... Just 3D print with filament.

I may be wrong though.

Consider water-soluble resin, but always use 99% IPA to wash. First, dab with tissue paper to soak up drips, wash in used/dirty IPA, and then wash again in clean IPA. This will remove most if not all uncured resin. You should be able to hit within 0.1mm repeatability with anti-aliasing turned off.

Finally, the UVA cure chamber must be able to kick off the resin. After 15min on each side, then wash the build with a hand cleaner. Place all PPE like gloves in a clear bag, and leave in the sun on both sides for 1 hour.

"USD700" is almost double what a mid-sized Creality printer costs, and aftermarket 3M flex plate kits are about $30.

Without a garage/outdoor/lab work-space people shouldn't buy stinky resin printers. =3

Your regular printer, like mine, presumably puts down a line of melted plastic material with an extruder, bit by bit, so the print time is guided by complexity as well as size.

Resin printers, basically, are stereolithographic. They:

- dip the build plate (upside down) into a thin tray of resin

- push it all the way onto onto a screen at the bottom of the tray

- blast that screen with UV through a translucent LCD display that contains a mask image of the current "slice" of the whole plate, enough that the thin layer of resin partly cures

- lift the plate out of the resin so it peels off the screen and the resin replenishes below it

- repeat, with the next slice.

- then the whole model is taken out by hand, washed off, blasted with UV light to completely cure it, and the (more or less inevitable) supports snipped off.

So instead of printing line by line, the entire plate prints layer by layer — a small print takes (approximately) the same time as a full plate.

There are several big differences, notably that it is single-colour, much higher resolution, the various peel/adhesion forces are managed differently, larger parts need to be hollow with a vent so uncured resin drains out, most resin prints are quite brittle, and the whole process is traditionally really rather cytotoxic.

There are eco resins, tough resins, and printers that do a better job of not being chemically evil; this is one.

I've stayed away from it, because it's not the kind of printing I need (for all except one part that I might end up subcontracting) and because it is chemically nastier than b/w darkroom printing, which until now has been about my limit of risk.

The above is a bit of an oversimplification but it covers the main differences I think (happy to have corrections/additional comments)

https://formlabs.com/uk/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithogr...

It prints by curing a resin instead of heating and forming plastic. They've been around in industry for decades.

I have a blog post up for those who don't like extracting the relevant info from a video :)

https://www.jeffgeerling.com/blog/2026/formlabs-form-studio-...

He got one for free in exchange for making a video that glosses over the fact that it uses proprietary resin cartridges.

The finish of SLA regularly failed to meet my expectations. You either have warping and elephant foot at the build plate or you have a hundred support contacts to clip and sand.

Desktop CNCs are getting very capable and cheap. It’s hard to beat the tolerances and finish quality of a machined part.

Surprisingly complicated question. Most hobbyist grade machines are low powered and can only cure resin with pretty poor mechanical properties. Industrial resin printers can actually make incredibly strong parts. The studio 1 can apparently print in Formlabs Tough 1500 which is a decent strength resin. It’s noticeably better than the average “ABS like”. Resin prints are also isotopic (unlike composites and fdm prints) which has a lot of advantages for mechanical parts. Asking if resin prints are strong is a bit like asking if metal parts are strong; it really depends on the metal or resin being used

My experience is the resin is very stiff but very brittle, but I haven't kept up with the latest resins.

Please, please do NOT buy a resin printer as your first printer; IF you want to print intricate details (where resin excels) at least start with an FDM printer anda 0.2mm nozzle. Lots of information can be found here at r/fdmminiatures.

Resin is extremely toxic and requires a dedicated area and handling and care.

You can wash manually with some isopropyl alcohol in a wash basin and then cure in the sun. It will be a pain to do, and somewhat inconsistent, but its possible. You can also get a cheaper wash and cure station for other 3D printers that would likely work well enough with some tuning.

My first printer was resin without a dedicated wash/cure set up and it was difficult enough that I sold the printer and got an FDM. Currently I'm using an Snapmaker U1 and it's really awesome and much easier. It also prints in multicolor seamlessly.

That said, if you do spend the extra for this along with the wash/cure and the voc extractor, the demos are really impressive. It seems like this printer is blazing fast, for single color prints it will print basically anything at better resolution than an FDM in <2 hours, whereas FDM could take anywhere from 4-12+ for a similar part with bigger layer lines.

You can wash the print in an ultrasonic bath [1] in isopropyl alcohol (IPA).

Then cure using a UV LED strip (5m w USB plug ~2 EUR) inside an empty can (another 2-5 EUR) and a solar-powered rotating base [2].

The light from the LEDs is cures as well as powers the base. All four will set you back less than 50 EUR.

[1] https://aliexpress.com/item/1005010131053964.html [2] https://aliexpress.com/item/1005012796313088.html

Ive been 3D printing for over a decade, SLA printers are just not worth it IMO. There useful for certain applications, especially industry but for home hobbyist, FDM + 0.2mm nozzle would go further as a first 3D printer

We don't have a wash here at our office, we just use a small container with IPA.

We have a UV cure cube, but often I just cure under a $20 amazon desktop UV light.

Honestly a Bambu printer is so insanely easy to use you'd be making printing ^25 harder with this.

For another $250, you can get another box that washes and cures.

Just don't. Resin printers are a pain. Get an FDM (filament) printer first.

If I had to guess, the latest Applied Science video on YouTube which somewhat showcased it.

The upvotes look genuine to me. I guess people are just excited?

There is nothing like that currently available, or likely to be created (resin curing is a chemical process, not a melting/solidifying).

there are products where you can re-melt and create filament for 3d printers or push it into a mold. Can probably build your own for $500 + a $500 3d printer.

> "true" SLA

What is that? Why is it better?

In general yes, resin and FDM printers both produce toxic VOCs.

But FormLabs for this printer and resin have focused on safetey and acquired a certification on their Alpha resins which show low VOCs that should be safe to print in an indoor room with low ventilation.

I still wouldn't, I would add ventilation and wear PPE, it's still going to be releasing some VOCs even if it comes under a tolerable limit. But I do appreciate what seems to be the first ever initiative in 3D printing to address the elephant in the room of VOCs directly at the material level.

John Formlab here, I check the referrer and charge extra to people coming from wealthy people websites

Wrote this elsewhere, but this printer prints a full volume in 2 hours. In many scenarios it's 10x faster than FDM with better resolution and compatibility with advanced materials, like food grade / skin contact, ultra strength and rubber-like consistency.

You actually would probably want the wash/cure and VOC extractor upgrades so it's more like 1200$ before it's useful, but if you have the clean room space and ability to handle the toxic resin, functionally resin printing is typically better than fdm for single color prints.

From the hobbyist perspective, the main thing this gets you is much more precise and detailed prints, so they're very popular in the model making community.

From a professional perspective, this gives you access to a bunch of different materials that open up all kinds of options for prototyping.

Amazing detail, a resin allergy, and cancer