TheAceOfHearts
13 days ago
I need to share a video [0] which helped contextualize Alex Honnold for me by contrasting him with another climber I've watched for years: Magnus Midtbo. In this video they're solo climbing a fairly simple and safe mountain, and Magnus is visibly stressed out while Alex calmly shouts encouragement all while recording.
When watching Alex Honnold in Free Solo, I understood there was a exceptional aspect to him, but it took me seeing him climb with other people to really grasp the magnitude.
aequitas
12 days ago
Reminds me of that time I was taking climbing lessons in the Belgian Ardennes. Helmet on, in harness, hanging in the ropes, holding tight to not fall, we where climbing half way up the mountain, when a person out of nowhere ask if he can pass and just flew up the key section of the route. It was just a local, casual clothes, no harness, no helmet, no rope, maybe not even proper climbing shoes but I can't recall that. Just casually climbing the mountain like he was on a lunch stroll. Even now with years of experience I still don't have that confidence.
kqr
13 days ago
I suspect a lot of this is habituation due to repeated practise. As long as one climbs well within one's abilities, the actual level of danger is comparatively low. But the fear is still there and needs to be trained away.
ahussain
13 days ago
They also did an MRI scan on Honnold and found that he doesn't have the usual fear response. It's not clear if this was trained away, or if it's something innate.
https://nautil.us/the-strange-brain-of-the-worlds-greatest-s...
magicalhippo
13 days ago
I recall reading about a certain species of birds where, to impress the females, the males dives to the ground. The closer to the ground before they pull out of the dive the more impressive.
The scientist found there was a gene encoding how daring a bird would be, mostly clustered in two groups IIRC. But there was a rare variant which made them much more fearless, causing them to go much lower than the others.
However they only found birds with one copy of that variation. Turned out if a bird inherited the variant from both parents, they never pulled out of the dive and smacked into the ground, killing the bird.
These crazy free solo climbs and similar reminds me of those birds.
xorvoid
13 days ago
This. Watching Honnold makes your palms go clamy and makes you uncomfortable because you imagine how terified you'd be in that position. But for an athlete like Honnold, the experience is more similar to just a "hard hike". Strenuous, but just work. It's just normalized because he does it so damn much. He really seriously is not gonna fall off that building, just like you're not gonna get seriously injured on a class 3 hike.
(Source: I'm also a climber. Not remotely close to Alex's level. But frequent exposure significantly changes how your brain processes these situations)
padjo
13 days ago
I don't think it required much training for Alex, I think he just has an under active amygdala or something
cainxinth
13 days ago
It’s literally the case. They gave him an fMRI:
https://nautil.us/the-strange-brain-of-the-worlds-greatest-s...
e40
13 days ago
That’s the impression I got: he doesn’t feel fear like the rest of us.
throwaway290
13 days ago
is it possible to suppress amygdala? asking for a friend